I fell on the ground!!!! On one of my daily bike rides, I was close to my school and going downhill. I was thinking about visiting school, so I wasn’t watching the road. Enter this massive, ugly pothole (and also my friend Henry, who came to town a few days later for back-to-school training and was kind enough to commemorate the pothole for me).
I busted my chin, my knee, and my hand. Fortunately, by busted, all I mean is swelling, scrapes, and bruises. All considered it could have gone much worse. The Peace Corps, being the slightly overprotective organization that it is, called me down to the capital Cotonou, so I’ve been staying here in the medical ward since Wednesday.
Before we get into Cotonou, I’ve been settling quite well into site! I have found someone to do my laundry (woo), I’ve been exploring shopping opportunities and buying kitchen staples and utensils. I’ve been cooking for myself with somewhat haphazard results. I bought a bad avocado, realized when I got home, and then ate it anyway. Needless to say, I won’t be doing that again. My friends in the health sector rightfully shamed me for my actions.
I’m excited to continue experimenting with refrigerator-less single-serving cooking. I’ve managed so far, but I do think I haven’t quite been cooking enough considered my greatly increased physical activities. In addition to those aforementioned daily bike rides, I’ve been getting back into pilates. I want to start the school year in a strong physical, mental, and social space, and these two weeks before classes kick-off are the perfect time to do exactly that.
Or at least, that was the plan before I FELL on the GROUND. Instead of my perfectly poised routine with social calls and joy on my biking journies, I’ve been sitting in the med ward playing the Sims 4 and watching reality television. I even bought myself ice cream. I’ve actually spent inordinate amounts of money on cheese, chips, decadent pastries, and takeout (Indian! Mexican! Pizza!)
I’ve spent a lot here, but I’m trying to remember that this is a necessary visit for my health. While my injuries are light, they were large, so it’s good to stay in the med ward to avoid infection. In addition, one massive silver lining is that all of cohort 34, the group of volunteers who has been here a whole year, were all in town for their mid-service training. I met all 14 of the group, which reinforced my sense of connection with Peace Corps Benin. I definitely have a better understanding of the volunteers near me and projects we could pursue together.
Having 34 here has really helped with loneliness. My nights are wiled away watching the extended editions of the Lord of the Rings films (“the only way to watch them,” my friends Shreyas and Caleb declare haughtily), people perched in every corner of the two couches and the mattress we drug into the room, letting inside jokes I’m not apart of flow around me. It doesn’t bother me (at least, not much), because I’m here as a temporary visitor in this social context. I’m trying to practice just being. I try really hard when I’m with people I think are cool, and sometimes that strains me past the point of being enjoyable or being able to enjoy myself. I’m working on this.
One person I’m particularly grateful for this week: Emma! Emma is like a big sister to me. In many ways, we mirror each other. Cohort 34 has been calling us tweedle dum and tweedle dee, with our inscrutable Sims 4 obsessions, love of literature, and YouTube channels. Emma has a lot of international travel experience and a lot of wise advice, witty commentary, and always sticks by my side (or really, it’s me sticking by hers). She booked my first tuktuk (little street tricycle), and we’ve since spent many rides together, Emma pointing out favorite Cotonou restaurants and shopping spots, all recommendations accompanied by stories of her adventures here these past months.
I went to the American Embassy pool on Saturday with my friends! It was a little surreal to walk onto the campus. With it’s perfectly poured gravel, massive white SUVs, proliferation of American flags, and slightly humid tiny tiles that covered the bathroom floor, it felt like being in the states. I brought my sandwich supplies but forgot my cheese, so I resignedly dug into my only-chicken sandwich watching the intensifying rain fall into the pool. It didn’t matter much to me, as I was on strict orders to not wet my wounds.
Instead, I sat on a lawn chair under an umbrella and read Americanah by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. Expect a more detailed reflection and review once I finish, but already, I find Adichie to be discerning and levelling, giving me a lot of food for thought about interactions between Americans and West Africans. I do always bear in mind that Adicihie is Nigerian and writes from that perspective, and so I do my best to not overly generalize West Africa. Adicihie actually helps me add more distinctions between West African cultures to my mental lexicon, providing a Nigerian perspective on a variety of countries and distinctions and the manner in which they interact with or do not translate to American contexts. America, unsurprsingly, has its own cultural jargon that outsiders may struggle to grasp, and it’s good for me to grapple with that in order to better serve my community as a teacher. Bias is inevitable, but what I can do it be aware of my biases and take measures to mitigate them. I highly recommend Adichie and Americanah! It’s a novel about love, hair, immigration, conformity, dark humor, and far more.
And so here I sit, preparing for what I hope is my last day in the med ward. I’m making shopping lists consolidating the requests of my friends at site. I’m cleaning up my explosion of clothing. I’ve been dreaming and planning a lot, because that’s about all I can do in this silly little hospital bed. I am doing my best to be grateful for the opportunity to be so still for a bit. And to be completely honest, I will miss the airconditioned room and heated shower so, so dearly.
Please enjoy my memory board of Summer 2024. It’s strange to be sliding into Fall when, in fact, Benin is about to get hotter. Dry season is on the way and I’m not so sure I’m ready. I digress. I hope to make these memory boards a monthly feature! I had a lot of fun putting it together, remembering things big and small, personal and professional, that colored these last several months. I’m thinking about filming making future boards so I can engage in reflection that way as well.
Some of you sent me pictures in response to my last blog post. I may not have responded, but know that that meant SO much to me. Please send more photos! How are SEC OU football games at the Palace on the Prairie? Senior year? Back to school season? Let me know!
With love,
Lena
The content of this blog post is mine alone and does not reflect the views of the U.S. Government, the Peace Corps, or the Benin Government.
